

Story of Our Taxi-Brousse Journey: RN13 Fort Dauphin – Antananarivo
Saturday 12 July 2025 10:40
Tuesday morning, 6:30 a.m. The sun was barely rising over Fort Dauphin when my four colleagues and I boarded an old taxi-brousse heading to Antananarivo. We were excited but slightly anxious: 1,135 km of rough roads and unpredictable events awaited us.
Day 1 – Delayed Departure
By 10:26 a.m., we were still waiting. Finally, we set off. Spirits were high—singing, laughing, sharing coconut bread—until the engine overheated near Ampamata. The radiator was leaking, patched up with soap and cloth. After a two-hour stop in the sun, we hit the road again, quieter this time.
Day 2 – Panic on Board
At Beraketa, the engine overheated again. This time, the driver discovered we’d been rolling on a bare rim—one of the rear tires was missing! Soon after, thick smoke poured from the exhaust. A woman screamed, “Fire! Fire!” Panic broke out. Passengers smashed windows to escape, carrying children.
The driver, calm but firm, reassured us: just steam from a water crossing. We continued, shaken. A simple dinner in a basic inn, then back on the road, taking turns driving.
Day 3 – Red Zone and Breakdowns
We entered the notorious “red zone” between Betroka and Ihosy, an area plagued by armed bandits. Every breakdown brought new tension. At “Tampon’Ihorombe”, a high-risk spot, we had to stop—nerves were tight.
Reaching Ihosy brought relief. But the road remained tricky. Between Ihosy and Ambalavao, the exhaust pipe fell off, and a wheel began clanking. A bolt was missing. We waited three hours until a passing truck helped us out.
We ate in Ambalavao, exhausted, then pushed on. No hotel stay—just bundled up in our jackets to sleep.
Day 4 – The Final Stretch
We left Antsirabe at 8 a.m. for the last leg. The road was better, but we faced frequent police checkpoints. Our driver handled them smoothly. At 3 p.m., the lights of Antananarivo appeared on the horizon. Applause broke out as we arrived at Fasankarana station—four days of dust, fear, laughter, and resilience.
But this trip also raised important questions:
The RN13 highway is in terrible condition, making travel slow and dangerous.
Security in red zones is a real concern.
Crisis response, like during the smoke panic, shows the need for basic safety and first aid training.
Beyond the anecdotes, this journey is a reminder: infrastructure must improve, people need safety education, and travelers deserve protection.
Yes, we made it. But the journey—figuratively—has only just begun.








